Family and good ground
‘Ahlan wa-Sahlan! I enjoy this familiar Arabic greeting when extended as
welcome by a host to a hotel, a shop, or to the home of a friend. Though a
simple expression, it reaches beyond the casual to real hospitality. It
means: “Family and Good Ground.” The idea in it is that the host invites a
sojourner to join in full membership with the family wherein safety, rest
and renewal abound. Family is a big deal in the Arab world. It constitutes
a shared experience of story and soil, blessed privileges and obligations
extending throughout and beyond this life.
In a quarter of a century of guiding groups in the middle east, I have
travelled often with the closest members of my family. My daughter and son
have come and look forward to the next time. And I shall not have sustained
my stamina and enthusiasm long had not my dearest friend, my wife,
accompanied me on many occasions. On this trip past, however, the
experience of family reached another dimension. Joining me for the first
time was my brother, a pastor from northwest Iowa, with his wife and some
really great folks from the surrounding area. I had not imagined how
meaningful it would be to be here with my brother for these days. Our love
and regard for one another was awakened amongst the sites and experiences of
this trip. And though we have seen one another rarely in recent years, we
found here together “family and good ground.”
I always encourage participants who plan to come without their loved ones to
consider the benefits of being in this holy land with family. I have often
seen relationships enriched, commitments reforged, lives repaired when
families find each other here. Indeed all of us discover a new heart with
and for one another in this land where God does His best work. This is not
surprising. It is He, after all, who is our Host here, welcoming us to
“family and good ground.”
Hola, todo el mundo!
It is always rewarding to introduce the biblical cultures to those from a culture not my own. These days I am in Jerusalem with dear friends from Puerto Rico. They are exceptional learners but excellent teachers as well. I’ve learned much from them about how Caribbean peoples read the Scriptures and also at what points they make special contact with the peoples of the ancient near east. Still, in many ways, all of those who come to this “Land of Faith,” since the days of early Christian pilgrimmage, come with the same eyes and the same hearts.
St. Cyril, bishop of Jerusalem in the 4th century, challenged pilgrims at the Church of the Anastasis in Jerusalem “to receive and to release” on their visit. For many, the pilgrimmage was the culmination of a conversion to Christianity begun in their hearts and now confirmed with their eyes. We challenge those who come on our trips to be open to what God has for them in this land. They WILL receive something here. Some gain a new-found appreciation for the reality and truth of the Scriptures. For others fires of compassion are lit in cold hearts, now warm to peoples for whom there had been only indifference. All come away with something new, a new thing that God begins to do in them because they’ve come here.
Of equal interest to me is what pilgrims feel free to release while in this land. Burdens carried for years, old grudges, nurtured anger that has festered in lives and left them joyless. The cross gets it all, and Jesus is glorified. We walk together here in a shared experience of faith following hard after Christ.
So to my friends from Puerto Rico and to all of you who have taken these steps with me: Gracias y bendiciones! May our great God continue to do a work in you that for many of you began in this land of faith.
Travel to Israel
Hello, friends. Just a quick note to those of you planning a trip to Israel to Israel this month. I know that you are keenly interested in the actions taken this past week by the Israeli military in Gaza. You may want to know what I think. Well, my purpose in this limited space is not to comment on what is happening in Gaza or why. That deserves another forum. But I am concerned this morning with the related issue that some of you may miss out on an exceptional, life-changing experience in the lands of the Bible because of the suggestion of danger due to these events. This would be most unfortunate.
After almost thirty years of work in the middle east, I have seen just about everything. Enough to get a read on how people make decisions about travel at times like this. Here’s my take. Almost always, the decision will inevitably come down to the emotional makeup of the individual and/or their well-meaning family and friends, and not to the reality of life on the ground in Israel. In fact, Gaza is NOT Israel. Life in Israel today is normal. You see this right away when you are there.
Please consider this. And also consider that a trip to Israel requires that you trust God with your life just as you do every day at home. The risks are very much the same.
Herod’s Tomb??
Reports from Israel this week announce that the burial site of Herod the Great, infamous for the infanticide of Matthew’s gospel (Matthew 2:16-19), has been discovered. Is it likely—or even possible for that matter—that someone so long dead (2000 years!) would just “turn up?” Actually, yes … You see, Herod was no ordinary ruler for his time or in the region in which he lived. He is remembered for enormous political acumen as well as for monumental feats of architecture second to few in his world . And this notoriety was cemented with incredible details of his life, lore and loves in the writings of both Jewish and Roman historians. Hard for someone this conspicuous to hide forever.
The site of Herod’s burial place has actually been known since the first century CE. The Jewish historian Josephus records that for his final rest Herod had selected the site of Herodium (“Herod’s Place”—he was a humble guy), 12 miles south of Bethlehem, off the Jerusalem-Hebron ridge road. Here, miraculous events had unfolded in the thirties that saved him and his family from their enemies, the Hasmoneans and their Parthian supporters. It remained a special place for Herod to his dying day. And so Josephus writes that after Herod died in Jericho, his body was littered through the Judean desert to a processional ramp and monumental staircase at Herodium and from there to his mausoleum on the site.
Lots of detail here: the circumstances, the place and cause of death, the funeral program, and even the cemetery. So why has it taken archaeologists nearly half a century to find the tomb? Years of excavation on upper (the acropolis) and lower (the resort) Herodium turned up nothing. Some theorized that “the old fox” had plotted to conceal his grave from snoops and vandals, much like the early pharaohs in Egypt had. Perhaps he was not even buried at Herodium at all. But to most this theory never made much sense. Josephus’ account is so exact; it is unlikely that he was aware of any such controversy. So the find spot turns out to be exactly where the first century historian says it would be: not in the impressive building remains and fortifications of upper and lower Herodium, but in the middle, at the top of the staircase which ran off the processional path leading to the canyons from Jericho.
True, the bones were gone and the sarcophagus in shambles, signs of desecration and looting. But one might expect this since Jewish Zealots had occupied Herodium for five years during the first revolt against Rome (CE 66-71) and being no friends of Herod, might have sought to waste the memory of the old king. Also Herod’s opulence guaranteed an impressive stash in the tomb, which may have been attractive to the freedom-fighting Zealots. But from what we know of the Zealot behavior at similar sites like Masada and Machaerus, it was not their style to loot Herod’s treasures. They simply ignored them. And what about the skeleton? Was it ever at Herodium or did Herod outfox us all by having his corpse interred elsewhere? What do I really think?
Come to Israel with me. We’ll lay it all out and visit this site that is surely to attract renewed interest after this amazing recovery. Not only of artifacts, but also of events relating to the demise of one of the history’s great figures.
Seen it all
I tend to think that I’ve seen it all after almost four decades of learning, research, and guiding in the lands of the Bible. Often, folks will ask if I get bored with the “same old.” And then, every trip reminds me again of how wonderfully new each experience is. Ongoing archaeological surveys and analysis present new opportunities constantly. And the past decade of reconstruction gives new meaning to even the most familiar of stops. But more than this, it is the people who join me on these excursions and our encounters with the peoples of this land that furnish the most wondrous of surprises. Boredom is hardly possible.
A recent reminder of this came with our July group just completed. Who could have imagined that after at least thirty boat rides with groups on the Kinneret (Sea of Galilee), this time crew and travelers would join together on board in dance to the strains of Hava Nagila (“Come On, Let’s Party!”). And party we did! We docked in Tiberius exhausted and exhilarated. And then there was Mary, a public school Latin teacher and student of Greek and Hebrew. Having taught the Bible seriously to students of all ages for years, Mary said she felt that she’d just begun to learn the biblical lessons of history and faith now seen through the lens of the eastern Mediterranean world. Mary, your enthusiasm for this tour encouraged me greatly that none of us has “seen it all.” I suppose that is the theme of this final summer trip 2008: Whoever you are, whatever your circumstance or experience, God has something new and deeper for you here in His land. Please consider joining me soon.
Before signing off, a quick thanks to all of those who made this trip sing: Martin and Dianna, Jay and Susan, Trevor and Kate, and of course, my faithful friend and colleague of many years, Adel. You guys are second only to those dearest to me who love me unconditionally while I’m away in my “other life.” Karen, Lydia and Zach, I love you too!
Downtime in Jerusalem
As always, the weather is warm in mid-summer Jerusalem as I study and rest between summer groups. Though a dry climate here, one looks for the shade whenever possible. The flora of this land holds secrets that, when discovered, can benefit us pedestrians. Many of the trees in Israel make adjustments to the climate by developing miraculous mechanisms for retaining moisture—even in the five to six months of the year when it doesn’t rain. Standing under the Tamarisk at midday as it showers its abundance of dew on the guest under its branches is better than any air-conditioning system can afford. The flora of Israel reminds me again that even in these dry months, our experiences in this land live vibrantly in the hearts of those who come.
Our first group was just delightful. Never can I remember in nearly 30 years of guiding in the Middle East a group more diverse in age and circumstance than this one. Sherri and Igor brought their sons, Christopher (10) and Zachary (8). I learned many years ago not to underestimate the age level at which one can be held captive by this wondrous land and the world of the Bible that it still reflects. Chris and Zach were at my side all of the way with questions and thoughtful observations that helped me through their eyes to see old sites in new ways. Thanks so much, boys! This old guide will never forget you. And then there was Maxine (we’ll leave the age out of this one). A mature believer and willing pilgrim, she did every walk and every site with enthusiasm. The younger among us were encouraged by her quick steps and our frequent reminders to one another that “Maxine did it!” Thank you, Maxine, for you militant optimism, refusing to miss out on anything that God had for you in Israel. To all of you, as you expressed your gratitude so lovingly to me on our last evening together, may God give you in the new perspective you have gained a closer and more faithful walk with Christ.
And then for those of you who have never been to Israel or have come with me at other seasons, consider a summer trip! Along with the typical seasonal activities like swimming daily and boating, I promise you that your life will be refreshed as you experience the lands of Jesus and prophets. God will “get a mortgage on your soul” and you will surely return.
The uniqueness of our trips
Though several months have passed since our winter trips, perhaps it is not too late to report that these experiences went very well. Ample time in the desert and the well-watered lands of the north, good contacts with the various peoples of Israel, and of course walking the world of the Bible left everyone with much more than they had bargained for. Traveller Bob Shuey’s comment will stick with me forever: “I thought I was going on a vacation; I had no idea … I couldn’t have anticipated what this actually was nor the profound impact [the trip] would have on me.” Bob’s comment is typical of first-timers on our trips. It is difficult to imagine from the CNN images of the middle east (or from homemade slides, for that matter!) the depth of this penetrating experience on one’s knowledge of the world and the Bible and one’s walk with God. I’m at a loss to describe completely all of the factors that set our trips apart. But a couple things do stand out that over the years have seemed to have had the greatest impact on our travellers:
1. THE TRIP IS NOT A TOUR OR A COURSE. These alternatives pretty well describe what is typically done in the land of Israel by agents in the west or in country. Tours depend on local guides who are trained well but sometimes don’t connect with what travellers are looking for academically and spiritually. Tours also spend a great amount of time in buses and in tourist shops. Courses, on the other hand, are generally run by western agents in Israel focusing largely on technical matters of geology and geography, most of which are presented in a classroom setting. What we do is richly informational, deeply inspirational, and refreshingly recreational. We spend no time in traditional tourist shops or in classrooms covering things that could just as easily be covered in classrooms in America. Every bit of our time in Israel is given to presenting you with an authentic experience of the Bible from within its historical, cultural and geographical context. Far from wearing out our travellers, everyone comes home invigorated by hands-on experiences of being in one of the most important countries of the world today and in ancient times.
2. THE TRIP IS RUN ACCORDING TO A BIBLICAL CHRONOLOGY. One of the things that most of our participants comment on as providing significant impact is the way we set up our journeys according the flow of the Scriptures. We have spent a great deal of time over the years crafting our itinerary to cover “first things first and final things last.” We begin in the world of the patriarchs and matriarchs of Israel; then move to the world of the exodus and the desert wanderings of the early Hebrews. Next on the itinerary we experience the context of the kings and the prophets of national Israel. Transitioning with the exile, we move on finally to the New Testament, focusing, of course, on the life of Jesus. We look at the seven phases in the life of our Lord sticking closely to the flow in which these phases unfolded. They are:
a. Anticipation. Sites connected with promises in the Hebrew Bible of the coming Messiah.
b. Birth and Boyhood. Sites in Galilee (Nazareth) and Judea (Jerusalem and Bethlehem).
c. Commencement. Sites connected with the inauguration of Jesus’ ministry.
d. Distinction. Sites in Galilee connected with the preaching and healing ministry of Jesus.
e. Exiting. Sites in Upper Galilee and the Golan connected with Jesus’ withdrawal from the crowds.
f. Finalizing. Sites in the Jordan Valley connected with Jesus’ drawing together of his ministry.
g. Gloom and Glory. Sites in Jerusalem connected intimately with the final week of Jesus on earth.
These are a couple of the things that stand out in mind. I hope this has been helpful for you and that very soon you’ll be able to join us on one of our excursions into the biblical world. Like Bob Shuey and many others, you will come back changed. That I promise.
As if it were yesterday…
Hey Friends! At this time of year I often find myself in the middle east—usually in body but always in heart. My wife is fond of calling these places “[my] other life.” The other day I ran across this little piece I wrote awhile back. It captures the grip that the lands of the Bible have held me in for some time. I called it: “As If It Were Yesterday.” And I thought it might interest you as we approach the season of our Savior’s birth.
I remember it today as if it were yesterday. I’d been in Israel little more than a week. And I found myself in Galilee sitting on a hillside that once was a center of regional government during the time of Jesus. Then very little of the city of Sepphoris had been unearthed, so few imagined how significantly this site would change notions about the early life of Jesus and the social landscape of the New Testament. Growing up in Nazareth only 5 miles away, Jesus was surely aware of this highly developed city with a bustling business, intellectual and social life. Perhaps he even worked there as an apprentice craftsman while the city underwent renovation during the days of Herod Antipas. All of this was far from my mind in the autumn of 1973 as I sat perched atop two millennia of dust settled upon the ruins of Jesus’ world. But I did know even then that this land would forever have a profound influence on my life as I had begun to experience a closeness with my Lord and with the biblical people that I had not known before. One Old City shopkeeper puts it well, “You come to the land once; it gets a mortgage on your soul, and you have to return.” And I have been returning now for more than a quarter of a century.
While much has changed in the lands of the Bible since the days of Jesus and the prophets, much hasn’t. You can still see shepherds watching their flocks by night, desert dwellers living the life of Abraham and Sarah, fishermen casting their nets in the Sea of Galilee, valleys of shadows of death, baptismal sites in the Jordan river, and yes, even political tension with neighboring peoples. Time always stands still for me when I walk through the old walled city of Jerusalem and occasionally tread on stones that have survived many changes since the days of Herod. These are stones that perhaps felt the weight of the Master as He walked through the city that made Him weep.
But in the end I’ve discovered that it is more than the stones and the places they support that draw me back so frequently. It’s the people themselves. People who live everyday with a connectedness to the biblical peoples because they are part of the same physical and cultural environment. And this environment which limits access to many of the things we take for granted challenges them daily to live a more authentic life than we often know on this side of the globe. I’ve discovered that more than a third of what is recorded in Scripture of the words of Jesus warned His followers of the traps of living in a predictable, manageable world that can obviate faith. When God mapped out a geography for His kingdom, He chose a strip of land only 150 miles long and 50 miles wide without a significant permanent water source. This is the sort of stuff that makes dependence upon Him a reality and not just the rhetoric of religion. This is what keeps drawing me back: a revitalizing experience of faith in the God who controls every facet of my being. And that is what is always there for me in the land and in its peoples as if it were yesterday.
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